. The Earth beneath the sea : History . Fig. 12. Hypothetical wave and shoreline conditions, and the postulated subsequent modification of the shoreline. The waves in deep water approach the coast at an angle of 45° and have a height of Hd — 61 cm and a period of 5 sec. at sections A, C, E and and respectively at sections B and 1).^ As a working api)roximation it would have been adequate to assume that cos a is unity and the transjiort rate is proportional to | sin 2ad. This function has values of I, | and \ respectively for the tlu'ee beach conditions. The relationshi]) imjilie

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. The Earth beneath the sea : History . Fig. 12. Hypothetical wave and shoreline conditions, and the postulated subsequent modification of the shoreline. The waves in deep water approach the coast at an angle of 45° and have a height of Hd — 61 cm and a period of 5 sec. at sections A, C, E and and respectively at sections B and 1).^ As a working api)roximation it would have been adequate to assume that cos a is unity and the transjiort rate is proportional to | sin 2ad. This function has values of I, | and \ respectively for the tlu'ee beach conditions. The relationshi]) imjilies that the transport rate is two times greater at beach sections A, C and E than at the inchned sections B and D. If tliis is the case, 1 It is assumed that the bottom contours are straight and parallel off the beach sections in question, and that the wave refraction can be obtained from SnelTs Law, assuming a wave velocity at the breaking point oi C = ^^/{), where // = [l/rfS(^/ff(is]!3 (Munk, 1949a).

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